If it’s not over-salted, Denbigh, let us start with the turtle.
Turtle Soup for the King , 19th July, 1821
Green sea turtles are one of the world’s largest species of turtle. They weigh circa 65-130kg and measure 1-1.2m in length.
Green turtle or “sea tortoise” became a popular delicacy in England during the 1720s. Its flavour was compared to veal or lobster or something in between. During the 1740s, turtles began to be imported to the UK, mostly from the West Indies or Ascension Island, and were kept alive in tubs of sea water. Roast or boiled turtle was soon replaced as a favourite by a soup. Below is a recipe by Samuel Birch (1757-1841). pastry cook, confectioner, satirist and, in 1814, briefly Lord Mayor of London.
BIRCH’S RECIPE for TURTLE SOUP
WARNING: DO NOT TRY THIS AT HOME
Allow 6 pounds of turtle per serving.
Prepare the turtle by cutting off the head and feet, then bring the flesh to the boil and simmer until almost cooked through.
Add wine, sweet herbs and a good piece of bacon.
Heat butter in a frying pan and cook everything until the soup is brown, the broth good and strong.
Season well with salt and cayenne pepper and steep with chunks of bread.
Garnish with asparagus and lemons.
MOCK TURTLE SOUP
A royal favourite, turtle soup became so popular that the species was almost wiped out. During the Victorian era, mostly for reasons of expense, the delicacy was often replaced by “mock turtle soup” of which the most consistent replacement for turtle meat was a calf’s head, skin and all.
Then the Queen left off, quite out of breath, and said to Alice,
"Have you seen the Mock Turtle yet?"
"No," said Alice. "I don't even know what a Mock Turtle is.
"
"It's the thing Mock Turtle Soup is made from," said the Queen.
Alice in Wonderland by Lewis Carroll, 1865
Alice and the Mock Turtle. Sir John Tenniel, 1865